system 1 headache

[oneandasixtenth]

well , I dint post here much in fact I have never posted to the repair section because I have never owned a machine

well heres what ive got ...

I've got a pretty nice genie , nothing turned on at first , found the short blowing the 1/4 amp slow blow fuse..that was huge because I am not a electrical engineer ..

well I have gotten all the lights to work , the sound works , the switches make the table scoring work..

but the scores don't light up , and none of the coils fire..
one of the coils plastic insert was melted (upper playfield ) and the lights around that flipper have a little rust on one side..(short?)
I have checked the capacitors on the power board , maybe the driver ?

the battery on the main cpu has a little leakage but no damage , (one diode has a little green on it) ...


any imput , suggestions , would be awesome because this is a real head scratcher...
trade for beach house for a couple days to poke around on her..(genie)?

this is not a re-saler it is one I plan to keep

Thanks for any help

[inthecan]

If you haven't yet you should definitely hit up RevTest here on the boards, he does solid work.

[revtest]

Thanks for the good words! Eric is much better with the Gottlieb's than I am maybe he can help you out, but First get that battery off now if its leaking at all or is even suspect. Sounds like maybe that coil that melted is stuck on (or was) that needs to be addressed then there is the recommended modifications and connector rebuilds. I sent you a PM with some info on system 1's that I have. maybe Nathan could chime in here also I think he has some experience with these.

[eric]

System 1s can be a pain, but with a little work you can get them to run pretty reliably. Before I do anything to a System 1 I always:

-Tie together the ground reference of the power supply, MPU, and driver board.
-Rebuild the 5V section of the power supply or replace it with a modern re-pro power supply.
-Rebuild the connector where the secondary voltages from the transformer enter the power supply.
-Rebuild the connector between the power supply and the MPU.

Re: displays, check the voltages coming off the power supply. Do you see 60V for the displays?

The green stuff on your diode is corrosion - i.e. damage - and will continue to spread and eventually destroy your MPU. This needs to be addressed ASAP.

[oneandasixtenth]

thanks thanks thanks \


Im off to get a solder sucker .....


i will do the test when I get back ...
also I did a diode test on those suspect diodes , and the read 1875 blink 753 blink 1 in the left corner , but I tested others and those seem to be reading ..... i will get a picture up when I get back


yall rock

[eric]

[oneandasixtenth]

those are the numbers reading on the digital multi meter..


the rest of the diodes test out great ...I realize that you have the anode and cathode and if you are testing them doors backwords the dmm reads a 1 on the far left side ...

the others I tested around the battery gave a reading around 620..? I think thats good?

also I have both the driver board and the mpu removed and the machine is still plugged in ...I hope i didn't fuck something up here.

should I put the boards back in before testing the power supply? I tested the caps on the power board and they are A+( I have the manual)



going for the test after the removal of the battree



thanks again
beach house is open and it have an elevator

[eric]

[oneandasixtenth]

A2P2 PIN 1 5.39V
PIN 2 5.39v
PIN 6 -12.1v


A2P3 PIN 1 .03 this is with the dcv setting at 20
PIN 3 00
PIN 7 00
PIN 8 00


I can send you a bottle of cheep scotch
great info and easy to follow instructions

thats what ive got going




as for the diodes ?



this has the good diode set up ?

[eric]

Looking at the schematics again I realize I gave you bad advice. You need to use the ground reference at A2P2 pin 4 to test voltage at A2P3 pins 7 and 8. Try this and let us know what you see.

The "20" on your multimeter is the max DC voltage it can read. Set it to the next highest range (200?) and test A2P3 pins 1 and 3 again (using ground at A2P3 pin 5).

As for the photos, I'm not sure what you want us to look at. There's definitely battery corrosion on the solder pads where the battery used to be. This will need to be carefully sanded off and neutralized.

[eric]

Also, there's a potentiometer on the power supply at R4. I would dial this back until you see 5.1V at A2P2 pins 1 & 2. 5.39V is a little high.

[oneandasixtenth]

A2P2 PINS SET AT 5.1v

there is no pin at PIN 4

so I stuck the black into that little hole where it looks like a pin should be

and got

PIN 7 AND 8 000

PIN 1 AND 3 000 ( using ground pin 5)

... thats not good?....

you eric , crush it daily don't you ?

[eric]

It's pin 4 on the other connector (A2P2) - the same ground reference you used to measure the 5V. Use this for testing pins 7 and 8 on A2P3.

So it looks like you're missing 60V and 40V which are the display voltages. Is the 1/4 A fuse in the bottom of the cabinet blown?

[oneandasixtenth]

yes it is

I had put a fast blow 1/4 amp (was told it should work) because when i got the game the slow blow was blown...and I could not get another one here .
shit I thought I had that fucker figured out ..I was high on the hog for a min there


shit im headed to coin op to pic some up 1/4 ampers slo blow up

anything else I should get ? diodes ?

I wont be back till saturday night, damit this machine is consuming me

T

[eric]

No, it needs to be a slo blo fuse. Get a couple in case it blows again while you're troubleshooting.

Dude, you are obsessed with diodes. If it means you'll stop stressing about them, yes, by all means pick some up!

[oneandasixtenth]

Ok, I put the new 1/4 amp slow blow , it did'nt blow, but on the 60v and 48v st does not show voltage ......

I did notice that the potentiometer on the power supply? it might control the higher voltages? the dial was pinned to one side , full power side!?

and I think i tested it because it seams to not show voltage like the other potentiometer ..

[eric]

R16 is the high voltage pot. Go ahead and see if rotating it changes anything. If not, set your meter to AC voltage and put one lead on the banded side of CR6 and the other on the banded side of CR8. It doesn't matter which lead goes where. You should see 69VAC.

[oneandasixtenth]

R 16 turns fine but the adjustments do nothing to the PIN voltage

also this pot shown no reading at AC voltage


new board or new pot or?

the caps test out good

but man, the power station in the bottom of the machine sure makes a hell of a hum , is that natural?

thanks

[eric]

You need to measure the AC voltage at diodes CR6 and CR8. Put one meter lead on the banded side of CR6 and the other on the banded side of CR8. Meter set to AC voltage. What do you see?

Is the hum coming from the speaker or the transformer?

[oneandasixtenth]

CR6 000
CR8 000


its the speaker thats humming

awesome call..

hummm.. i feel like my dmm is broke , nothing ever reads.... then i test a "no for sure" ...dmm not broke


thanks T