Bobby Orr Power Play Flipper issue

[sauce]

[eric]

You can test the functionality of the flipper relay by shorting the collector of its driving transistor (center leg or metal tab) to ground. I don't have the schematics in front of me, but Q15 almost always drives the flipper relay on early Ballys. If the relay seems sounds and the connectors are good, replace the driving transistor and its associated blocking diode and 330 ohm resistor.

Also, make sure you have voltage at all 3 lugs of the flipper coils.

Lemme know if you need parts and I'll mail them to you.

[eric]

A few more things...

Since the flipper relay is a continuous solenoid (i.e. it's on for extended periods of time as opposed to a momentary solenoid like a pop bumper) you can check for voltage at the base of its driving transistor to make sure it's actually being driven. Start a game and check voltage at the banded side of CR15 (this point has continuity with the base of Q15). If it's low (0V) something upstream has failed. And jeez, if you have access to a meter test Q15.

Solder joints of the relay can crack causing erratic behavior. Also check for 43V at J3 pin 5. This powers the flipper relay.

If reseating the connectors on the rectifier board restored the GI and feature lamps, those suckers need to be rebuilt!